A Special supplement for the Republic Day of India-26 January 2007:
Contributed by Nate V and Harish G (Flavor for Life)
Friendly banter with any Indian friend would invariably veer towards a favorite topic – Food! Food is an integral part of India’s culture, with cuisines differing according to community, region, and state. Indian cuisine is characterized by a great variety of foods, spices, and cooking techniques. Furthermore, each religion, region, and caste has left its own influence on Indian food. Many recipes first emerged from Hinduism and can be traced back to Vedic ages. Later, many invader left their mark on Indian cuisine - Mughals, Christians, British, Buddhists, Portuguese, and the list goes on.
Just as Japanese sushi relies on the freshness of the meat and Chinese food relies on the various sauces to impart the right flavor and taste, Indian food relies on the spices in which it is cooked. Spices have always been considered to be India’s prime commodity. It is interesting to see an Indian cook at work, with a palette of spices, gratuitously sprinkling these powders in exact pinches into the dish in front of him/her.
Many of ancient Hindu kings and rulers – Emperor Ashoka (who later on went on to become a staunch Buddhist) being a prominent one – propagated Vegetarianism. Many of the religious festivals and rituals have also influenced Indian cuisine.
History of Indian cuisine:
Use of spices and cultivated vegetables dates back to 6000 BC (Indus Valley Civilization). By 3000 BC many common spices such as Black Pepper, Cardamom and mustard were being cultivated and regularly used. In Vedic times, a normal diet consisted of fruit, vegetables, grain, meat, fish and dairy products.
According to the traditional Indian medical system Ayurveda, food is either satvic, rajasic or tamasic depending on its character and effect upon the body and the mind. Food types were classified based on division of labor and different sections of society had dietary guidelines according to the kind of the work they did. Brahmins or priests were prescribed vegetarian diet, while Kshatriyas or warriors could eat meat to give them strength and stamina to wage battles.
As mentioned earlier, over the centuries Indian cuisine has been influenced by many foreign cultures and cuisines. Islamic rule introduced rich gravies, pilafs and non-vegetarian fare such as kebabs, known today as Mughlai cuisine (Mughal in origin), as well as such fruits as apricots, melons, peaches and plums. The Mughals were great patrons of cooking. Lavish dishes were prepared during the reigns of Jahangir and Shah Jahan. The Nizams of Hyderabad state meanwhile developed and perfected their own style of cooking with the most notable dish being the Biryani, often considered by many connoisseurs to be the finest of the main dishes in India. During this period the Portuguese introduced foods from the New World such as potatoes, tomatoes, squash and chilies.
In modern days, though Brahmins are strict vegetarians usually, those who reside in West Bengal and Konkan coast consume a lot of fish. Southern Indians generally speaking, have been orthodox in their tastes, probably because eating meat when it is hot all year round can be difficult. In the North, the weather varies from a scorching heat to a nail-biting cold, with a sprinkling of showers in between. So, the food here is quite rich and heavy, which is facilitated by a cooperative climate where a variety of fruits and vegetables can easily be grown throughout the year.
Regional Indian Cuisine
Indian cooking is known for its diversity. Though Indian cooking has become very popular around the globe, only very little of its rich culinary heritage has been exposed to the world. When people think of Indian food, they always think of Butter Chicken, Tandoori Chicken, Chicken Tikka Masala, Naan or Dosa. There is much more to Indian cooking than these popular dishes.
Though it does not do complete justice to the variety and depth, Indian cuisine can be largely classified based on 4 geographical regions.
North India cuisine (including Mughlai and Tandoori cuisine)
Mughlai food known for its Kababs and rich gravies has a deep influence on World food today. An everyday meal of a Punjabi farmer would be centered around bread, corn bread, greens and buttermilk (‘Lassi’). Buttermilk is whipped yogurt, and can be had sweetened or with salt and is usually very thick. Wheat is the staple food in Northern India. Shredded vegetables mixed with spices and stuffed into the dough, which is then rolled and roasted to make the delicious stuffed breads or “Paranthas” (the influence of Indian bread can be found in Malay and Indonesian cooking e.g: “Roti-Canai” ). Some Punjabis also eat meat dishes, and Indian cottage cheese called “Paneer”. North Indian rice preparation, commonly referred to as Pulav (Pilaf) has its origins in Arab/Persian cuisine and is garnished with fried onions and roasted nuts like cashew and topped with silver leaf and rose petals. ‘Tandoori’ food, a favorite with many foreigners is a gift from the Punjab. Various meats are marinated with spices, ginger and garlic pastes and curd and roasted over a clay-oven(Tandoor) with a wood-fire burning underneath. The special wheat bread cooked over the Tandoor is called ‘Naan’. In the beautiful and rich valley of Kashmir, all dishes are built around the main course of rice. Fresh fish found in the many lakes and streams here are also consumed with relish. Lamb and poultry are cooked in the Mughlai style. In the North Indian state of Utter Pradesh (city of Lucknow), there are varieties of Kababs (Galouti) that are said to melt in the mouth due to the marinating and brilliant use of spices. In the arid deserts of Rajasthan, a great variety of dals (lentils) and pickles (achars) are used to substitute the lack of fresh vegetables and fruits.
Western Indian cuisine (including Konkan and Malwani cuisine)
Maharshtra (Bombay - Mumbai) has some of the little known but amazing variety of food. Both rice and wheat are included in their diets. A lot of fish is available along the long coastline. Bombil (a type of fish), Pomfret and Bombay Duck (a fried fish dish) preparations are delicious. Further down south along the coast, in Goa, the Portuguese influence is evident in dishes like the sweet and sour Vindaloo, duck baffad, sorpotel and Xacuti. The vegetarian cuisine is equally vast too with use of Coconut, lentils, greens, garlic and red chillies. Dishes such as Gassi, Patroda etc. are unique to the Konkani cuisine. Malwani cuisine is known for its spicy and tasty sea food preparations. Paav Bhaji, Vada Paav and Bhel Puri are Mumbai’s answer to fast food. Widely sold in the streets of Mumbai often serves the busy Mumbai-ite as “Grab and Go” snacks.
Gujarati food is known for its richness and its complexity. Extensive use of lentils, clarified butter, sugar and milk give the Gujarati food a distinct flavor. A Gujarati “Thaali” (a complete assemble of various dishes, gravies, rice, bread and sweets) is delicious and very heavy! Shrikand – a sweet dish prepared from Milk and sugar is very popular. Khakdas or the light, thin and crispy snack is had often with milky, sweet tea during tea time.
South Indian cuisine (Including Hyderabadi cuisine)
South Indian states of Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh all have distinct flavors of their own. Southern Indian cooking has the least amount of external influence barring for Muslim/Arab cuisine in Hyderabad and Kerala (Malabar) cuisine.
Tamilian food uses a lot of tamarind to impart sourness to a dish, whereas Andhra food can be really spicy and hot. Brahmins of Southern India are largely Vegetarian. Iyer and Iyengar communities of Tamil Nadu have their distinct delicacies. Even common gravy-based dishes such as Sambar or Rasam is made differently in different communities and regions of South India. Brahmin cuisines includes vegetables and fruits but, in many cases does not include onions, garlic, root vegetables and mushrooms. Breakfast preparations such as Idli, Dosa and Vadai have become universal hits and can be found in any part of the world today. While Tamilian cuisine is largely vegetarian, Central and Southern Tamil Nadu has fantastic Non-Vegetarian cooking. Largely known as Chettinad cuisine, Karaikudi, Madurai and Tirunalveli regions are known for its range of spicy and sweet dishes.
Kerala cuisine is known for its simplicity and moderate use of spices. Some of the better known Kerala vegetarian dishes include Avial, Puttu, Appam and Payasam (sweet dish). Malabar Muslim cooking is a little known secret that only many Keralites know. Malabar Biriyani, Pathiri and Fish Curry are simply out of this world. Use of Fish, Coconut (both oil and grated coconut) and curry leaves is a distinct feature of Kerala cuisine. Kerala cuisine has very close resemblance is presentation and taste to Sri Lankan Tamil cooking, which again uses a lot of Coconut.
Andhra known for its spicy Chicken and Meat preparations uses a lot of Red Chillies in its cooking. Hyderabad, the capital city, is the home of the Muslim Nawabs(rulers) and is famous for its superb Biriyani, grilled Kababs, Kormas and rich desserts (made with apricots).
Karnataka cuisine is largely vegetarian. The practice of naivedya, or ritual offerings, to at Krishna temple in Udipi, has led to the Udipi style of vegetarian cooking. The variety of dishes which must be offered to Lord Krishna forced the cooks of the temple to innovate. Traditional cooking in Udupi Ashtamatha is characterized by the use of local seasonal ingredients. Rice, Saaru (thin gravy similar to Rasam) and Palya (Sautéed Veggies) form the staple diet to a Kannadiga (many people of Karnataka speak Kannada). Sheera (sweet dish made of Vermicelli, sugar and Clarified Butter) is an all time favorite for them.
Eastern Indian cooking:
Eastern India and the North-East consists of many states – prominent ones are West Bengal, Assam, Orissa, Meghalaya, Tripura and Manipur.
Calcutta is the capital city of West Bengal. With its numerable eateries, road side vendors and a huge spread of cuisine, Calcutta is a ‘foodie’s’ paradise. Bengalis eat a lot of fish and it is said that a Bengali meal is not complete without fish. One of the delicacies is a fish called the ‘hilsa’ is spiced and wrapped in pumpkin leaf and cooked. Another unusual ingredient used in Bengali cooking is the bamboo shoot.”Machor Jhol” or fish curry is eaten with Rice. Machor Bhaj or Fish Fry is very popular too. Milk sweets from this region like the Roshgolla, Sandesh, Cham-cham are world famous. A large immigrant Chinese community is present in Calcutta and they serve some of authentic Chinese food. Over a period of time, the Indian influence and flavor has crept onto their cuisine and you can now find “Indian-Chinese” restaurants in many parts of country (Vancouver and Toronto in Canada has a few of them).
Beverages
Tea (Hindi: chai) is a staple beverage throughout India; India is one of the largest producers of Tea in the world and some of the finest varieties are grown in Darjeeling and Assam. It is generally prepared as masala chai, a boiled mixture of milk and spices. The less popular coffee is largely confined to South India. One of the finest varieties of Coffee is grown around Mysore, Karnataka. Other beverages include nimbu pani (lemonade), lassi, and Tender Coconut water. India also has many indigenous alcoholic beverages, including palm wine (toddy), fenny (Goan Wine made from Cashew fruit), and Indian beer.
Etiquette
Several customs are associated with the manner of food consumption in India. Traditionally, meals are eaten while seated either on the floor or on very low stools or cushions. Food is most often eaten using the fingers of the right hand instead using cutlery. Eating out of a common plate or container is considered unhygienic in many Indian communities. In many Indian families it is tradition to have the head of the family eat along with the children, followed by women. In many parts of South India, food is eaten out of a large Banana Leaf .
A ‘thaali’(a metal plate or banana leaf) is quite common in most parts of India. Both the North Indian and South Indian thali contain small bowls arranged inside the rim of the plate(or leaf), each filled with a different sort of spiced vegetarian food, curd and sweet. At the center of the thali you would find a heap of rice, some puris(wheat bread rolled into small circular shapes and deep-fried in hot oil) or chapathis(wheat bread rolled out into large circular shapes and shallow-fried over a hot ‘tava).
‘Paan’ or “Paakku” is served as a digestive and mouth freshner after some meals. The dark-green leaf of the betel-pepper plant is smeared with a little bit of lime and wrapped around a combination of spices like crushed betel-nuts, cardamom, aniseed, sugar and grated coconut. It is an astringent and is believed to help in clearing the system. Mumbai is known to be a good place for connoisseurs of paan.
Indian cuisine – capturing the world market
After the Immigration Act of 1965, South Asian immigration to the United States increased, and with it the prevalence of Indian cuisine, especially in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago, neighborhoods of New York city and New Jersey. In many Indian restaurants in the U.S., all-you-can-eat buffets with several standard dishes have become the norm. UK in general and London in particular has many Indian restaurants.
Curry has become synonymous with spicy gravy preparation. Basmati rice, the fragrant Indian rice used in cooking Pulav and Biriyani recently became a controversial trademark debate.
Indian restaurants are common in the larger cities of Canada, particularly in Toronto and Vancouver where large numbers of Indian nationals have settled since 1970. A number of the more adventurous restaurants have transformed their offerings into so-called Indian “fusion” menus, combining fresh local ingredients with traditional Indian cooking techniques. Indian restaurants can also be found in many European and Australian cities, particularly Paris, London, and Istanbul.
Due to the large Indian community in South Africa, the cuisine of South Africa includes several Indian-origin dishes; some have evolved to become unique to South Africa, such as the bunny chow. Many others are modified with local spices.
One thing is for sure – just a like a visit to India is a life changing experience, a taste of Indian cuisine is bound to change your palate preferences for life! [monsoonJournal.com]